Mount Cruiser/Southwest Corner

A two pitch, low 5th class, climb with lots of exposure, following a steep snow climb to the ridge. Mount Cruiser is in the southeast corner of the Olympic Mountains and is considered a classic climb of the Olympics by many. Flapjack Lakes is a limited use area so reservations may be a good idea. Times: 5-7 hr hike to camp, 4-5 hr climb to summit.

getting there

From US-101 along Hood Canal in Hoodsport, drive Lake Cushman Road 15 miles to the Staircase Ranger Station (770 ft). 

APPROACH

From the Staircase Ranger Station, hike up the old road 3.8 miles to the road end. Hike the Flapjack Lakes Trail 4.1 miles and camp at Flapjack Lakes. Otherwise, bivy sites are available near Gladys Divide.

ASCENT ROUTE

From Flapjack Lakes, hike 1.5 miles on trail to Gladys Divide. Just before the Divide, ascend southeast up the steep snow couloir to Needle Pass. Crampons and an ice axe are usually desired most of the year.  From Needle Pass, turn left and scramble exposed Class 3 to the top of Beta. Take the right-most notch at the summit of Beta and descend one Class 4 move and a short gully, then traverse high toward Cruiser until forced to descend a longer gulley that arrives at Cruiser’s base. Rope up and ascend the Class 4 gully leading to the giant chockstone. Go left around the chockstone and squeeze through a short tunnel to access a large platform about 200 feet up. Be aware that the tunnel makes communication difficult.

Move the belay across the platform to its end below the south corner of Cruiser. From there, climb the 5.0-rated face to a belay spot on the ridge crest. There are modern bolts just beyond the rusty pitons. The remaining ridge crest to the summit is easy but very exposed Class 3.

DESCENT ROUTE

Downclimb the Class 3 pitch, then rappel directly down to the platform 25 meters below. From the platform, two more 30 meter rappels reach the ground.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 5-7 2,700
Camp to Summit 4-5 2,600
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to Trailhead 3-4

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment plus crampons, ice ax, and a few small chocks. Minimal pro can be placed, but bring nuts or a few cams smaller than 1.5 inches. There are a few rusty quarter-inch bolts on some pitches that should be considered suspect.

NOTES

  • Flapjack Lakes is a limited use area so reservations are advisable. There are a limited number of overnight permits available on a first come basis.
  • The snow in the couloir is steep and often icy. In late season, it may be best to crawl the moat.
  • The rock on the climb is sound; the exposure on the final two pitches is high.
  • Because of the sustained exposure and lack of protection this climb is not recommended to first-year Basics Alpine Climbing students or as the first-time leading on rock for Intermediate Alpine Climbing students.
  • One could make a shorter but steeper approach via the Hamma River Road and Mildred Lakes trail. Bivy sites are available at about 6,540 ft. The Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide says, after reaching notch above Gladys Divide, to traverse east 50 feet, then ascend ridge and scramble north towards Cruiser. Easier terrain is found by ascending up cracks and ledges directly north from notch.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Length: 20.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,300 ft
  • 6,104 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Skokomish
  • USGS Mt Steel
  • Green Trails Mt Steel No. 167
  • Green Trails Olympic Mountains East No. 168S
Activities

Upcoming Activities

There are no activities scheduled at this location.

Trip Reports
Resources

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.