Guye Peak/West Face

A low 5th class alpine rock climb near Snoqualmie Pass.

Getting there

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road. Drive to the parking lot at the end of Alpental Road. Leave one car there. Drive the other car(s) back toward I-90, turn left up Ober Strasse, and park at the gravel pullout adjacent to the talus slope under Guye Peak's west face. Ober Strasse may be marked "Private - No Access." If so, park at a pull-off on Alpental Road just north of Ober Strasse and walk back to the gravel pullout.

APPROACH

Make a rising traverse up talus to the far left (north) side of Guye Peak's west face. At the end of the talus field is a rocky stream bed—it may be dry depending upon time of year. Ascend it—some may want a belay up the steepest section.

ASCENT ROUTE

Exit right onto a very large ramp with full grown trees. The ramp does a rising traverse all the way across the west face from north to south. It is visible from the road. Some may want a belay here, but most parties may be willing to scramble it. At the end of the ramp, ascend 40 feet of Class 4 to low Class 5 solid rock to another grassy ramp. This ramp rises to the left (north), and goes about halfway across the face, where it ends at a notch. Go through the notch, to climber's right, into the center of a wide gully. Here is the crux and final pitch. It starts up a steep crack/face and is low 5th class for approximately 30 feet, then it becomes Class 4 for about half a rope length, up rocks and through alpine trees. There is a good belay just before the notch at the top of this pitch. Unrope at the notch and scramble left (north) to the summit. There are three summits of nearly equal height—the summit register is on the south summit. The route ends between the south and middle peaks.

DESCENT ROUTE

From south summit, follow climber’s path around right (east) side of middle peak. At notch between middle and north peaks (scout ahead for correct notch), descend the gully and slabs to right to go around east side of north peak. The descent is ~100 feet—most groups will want at least an arm rappel. Then scramble up easy gully to notch on north side of north peak. A well-defined scrambler’s trail then leads down beside small pond, then left (west) to the Alpental parking lot.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HOURS) ELEVATION GAIN (FEET)
Trailhead to Summit 5-6 1,700
Summit to Trailhead 3-4

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment and an alpine rack with a few medium chocks.

NOTES

  • There is some rotten rock on this route. Getting from the south to the north summit takes some time and requires caution.
  • Credit is given for reaching any one of the summits.
  • Traversing around east side of north peak on descent is much easier than west side traverse recommended in previous Basic Climbs Guides. Also, return to Alpental parking lot is shorter than the Commonwealth Basin route.

FOr LEADERS

Permit information

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
  • Elevation Gain: 1,700 ft
  • 5,168 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Alpine Climb - Guye Peak/West Face

Climbing Trip
This climb is intended as an Everett LOR (rope-lead; 2 persons) and Everett Basic Climbing
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
Tue, Aug 10, 2021
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 2 leaders
Registration closes Aug 8
Everett Branch
Trip Reports
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