Guye Peak/West Face

A low 5th class alpine rick climb near Snoqualmie Pass.

Getting there

Drive east on I-90 to Snoqualmie Pass. Take the first exit, then left onto Alpental Road. Drive to parking lot at end of Alpental Road. Leave one car there. Drive the other car(s) back toward I-90, turn left up Ober Strasse, and park at gravel pullout adjacent to talus slope under Guye’s west face. Ober Strasse may be marked Private - No Access. If so, park at a pull-off on Alpental Road just north of Ober Strasse and walk back to the gravel pullout. 

APPROACH

Make a rising traverse up talus to the far left (north) side of Guye's west face. You will end in a rocky stream bed (may be dry depending upon time of year). Ascend it. Some may want a belay up the steepest section.

ASCENT ROUTE

Exit right onto a very large ramp with full grown trees. The ramp does a rising traverse all the way across the west face from north to south. It is quite visible from the road. Some may want a rope here, but most parties may be willing to scramble it. At the end of the ramp, belay up 40 ft of class 4/5.0 solid rock to another grassy ramp.

This ramp rises to the left (north), and goes about halfway across the face, where it ends at a notch. Go through the notch, to your right, into the center of a wide gully.

Here you will find the crux and final pitch. It starts up a steep crack/face and is low 5th class for approximately 30 ft, then it becomes 4th class for about half a rope length, up rocks and through alpine trees. There's a good belay just before the notch at the top of this pitch. Unrope at the notch and scramble left (north) to the summit. There are three summits of nearly equal height, but the summit register is on the south summit. The route ends between the south and middle peaks.

DESCENT ROUTE

From south summit, follow climber’s path around right (east) side of middle peak. At notch between middle and north peaks (scout ahead for correct notch), descend gully and slabs to right to go around east side of north peak. Descent is about 100 ft; most groups will want at least an arm rappel. Then scramble up easy gully to notch on north side of north peak. Well-defined scrambler’s trail then leads down beside small pond, then left (west) down to Alpental parking lot.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HOURS) ELEVATION GAIN (FEET)
Trailhead to Summit 5-6 1,700
Summit to Trailhead 3-4

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment and an alpine rack with a few medium chocks.

NOTES

There is some rotten rock on this route. Getting from the south to the north summit takes some time and requires caution. Credit is given for reaching any one of the summits.

Traversing around east side of north peak on descent is much easier than west side traverse recommended in previous Basic Climbs Guides. Also, return to Alpental parking lot is shorter than Commonwealth Basin route.

FOr LEADERS

Permit information

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
  • Elevation Gain: 1,700 ft
  • 5,168 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

There are no activities scheduled at this location.

Trip Reports
Resources

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

Tags: