Mixup Peak/East Face


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mixup Peak/East Face

Initial stage of a 3-day trip south of Cascade Pass to climb Mix-up and Formidable Peaks.

  • Fri, Jul 28, 2023
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 4, Technical 4
  • Challenging
  • Elevation Gain: 3,900 ft

We'll meet early Friday morning at the Cascade Pass TH, carpooling from Seattle as participants prefer.

Time TBD to be coordinated prior to the trip

This will be an involved 3 day trip posted as two climbs.

Day 1, climb Mixup Peak and proceed to Kool Aid Lake where we'll make camp for 2 nights.  Mixup is a loose class 4 and slabby class five alpine rock climb.

Day 2, out and back to Formidable Peak.

Day 3, optional scramble up Magic Peak from camp at the lake and then hike out.

When folks interested in the reach out about permission, please talk about experience/comfort with the multiple dimensions of the trip including glacier travel and multipitch rock climbing.  Also, please describe current fitness level since this we will be covering a lot of miles over these 3 days.


Mixup Peak/East Face

  • Green Trails Cascade Pass No. 80

    USGS Cascade Pass

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports