Eldorado Peak/Northeast Face


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Eldorado Peak/Northeast Face

two-day late-season ice climb

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Challenging

Will pick the better 2 days of the 3. Details to be discussed via email.

This climb is notoriously hard to execute as it is typically not "in" until late in the season when the weather already started to deteriorate, and crevasses have started to become an issue. With that, beta is limited, the path through the crevasses may vary, and there's some level of uncertainty about conditions and the exact route, which potentially means harder climbing to move around obstacles that might not exist otherwise, and that may not have been there the last time it the route was climbed. 

As such, this is not a good choice of  one's first ice climb. The key ice pitches, if possible to access and in condition, may contain sustained 60-degree ice.

The approach is strenuous. You should be in good condition and have completed at least one other ice climb after the ice field trips. Please describe your experience when requesting leader's permission.

The tentative plan is to camp on some rocks at around 6200 with access to water, and leave the rest of the approach for the second day. The second day may be long.

The plan may change closer to the climb date (please be flexible). 


Eldorado Peak/Northeast Face

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

Details to be discussed via email.

Trip Reports