Basic Glacier Climb - Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier


Basic Glacier Climb - Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

Kitsap 2019 Basic Alpine Students Only!

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Sat, Jun 29, 2019 — Sun, Jun 30, 2019
  • Kitsap Branch Climbing Program
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 8.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,768 ft
7:00 am at
Marblemount Ranger Station
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267


Parking Lot coordinates (48.49271, -121.12254)

Elevation at parking lot = 2200 feet



Please ensure you are in shape for this climb.

Day 1 will be long. We will gain as much elevation as possible.

a strenuous approach through talus and boulders. Lots of boulder hopping.

We need to get a backcountry permit at the Marblemount Ranger Station. The doors open at 7:00 am Saturday morning. Assuming we get the permit Saturday morning, Day 1 schedule looks like this. My best estimate at this time. Drive time to TH from the ranger station is about 1 hour.
Depending on how the team feels, we have the option to establish BC around 6400 feet to make Day 1 shorter. However, a shorter Day 1 means a longer Day 2.

At around 6200 feet we need to down climb to reach the Roush Creek Basin. Depending on conditions we have a couple options. Typically it is necessary to scramble down a rock section.

Trip report dated 6/1/2019, the old log crossing is gone. This means immediately after departing TH we have a water crossing. The water may be knee high. They also reported post holing after 7500 feet. I am not expecting we will have post holing issues for our climb dates.

Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Water crossing footwear
  • Crampons
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens (plus second pair)
  • Electrolytes
  • Sun protection
  • Map
  • Climb details
  • Glacier glasses
  • Gaiters
  •  Ice axe with leash (not technical ice tools)
  • Snow picket
  • Trekking poles
  • Prusik and foot prusik
  • Personal anchor
  • Chest harness
  • Climbing harness (glacier harness if you have one)
Trip Reports