Dark Peak/Dark Glacier


Basic Glacier Climb - Dark Peak/Dark Glacier

Lots of bushwacking and a healthy dose of glacier travel to check out the remote Dark Peak

  • Sat, Jun 15, 2024 — Mon, Jun 17, 2024
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 28.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft
  • Pace: 1,000 ft/hr min

We will either meet in Seattle and carpool to Chelan or meet in Chelan to catch the ferry to Stehekin.  Climb leader will work out which ferry option and transportation from Stehekin to High Bridge.

This is going to be a tough but rewarding climb.  Strong parties have taken 15 hours or more on summit day (day #2) due to both the almost 6k' of elevation gain and the routefinding, bushwacking, slide adlering, etc difficulties involved with getting from camp to the upper basin where the glacier travel to the summit pyramid begins.

If you are interested in getting back to a remote and seldom done peak in the Glacier Peak Wilderness with front row seats of the southern peaks in N. Cascades Nat'l Park, and are up for a healthy serving of beat down, then this trip may be for you!

Despite being a Basic Glacier route, I would not recommend this as someone's first glacier climb.  Similarly, I would not recommend this for someone who has only done single nights out and hasn't experienced a multinight climbing trip like this.

So excellent physical fitness is absolutely required for this trip.  Can't stress that enough.

If you are interested, please contact the climb leader with details on present physical fitness, current training program, and experience with other big trips similar to this one.  


Dark Peak/Dark Glacier

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports