Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Creek


Basic Alpine Climb - Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Creek

Overnight climb of a Smoots peak to warm up for climbing season.

  • Sat, May 18, 2024 — Sun, May 19, 2024
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Alpine Climb
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 11.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,500 ft

See trip planning email. Be aware that it's  a 3-4 hour drive to the trailhead from Seattle. Carpooling encouraged. No pass required.

Click [MORE+] to read ALL notes before requesting permission:

  • The trip is a re-post of a cancelled climb. Preference to those already registered in the original trip led by Travis Prescott and Rochelle Garcia. 
  • If there are still spots open, others can request permission after 9 AM of May 15th. In your permission request please briefly describe your snow camping and climbing experience and current fitness.
  • The plan is to climb via Silver Star Creek and do this climb as an overnight and camp at the bench at 6400 feet. Day 1 would have aa 3200+ feet  gain likely taking 5-6 hours depending on conditions. Open creeks and slide alders could be our main obtacles to content with.  Day 2 will be summit day with 2600+ gain to the summit. This is the part of the remaining of the Silver Star Glacier. A few crevasses could be open. We may rope up for this section based on conditions. The final summit scramble is a class 3 assiming we do a good job at navigating the summit block. We will likely have an alpine start, return to camp by mid-late morning,  break camp and descend back to the cars. Sunday evening return to Seattle may be a late one, do not make evening plans. If we are back in time a dinner at Mondo in Marblemount is possible if desired.
  • Weather forecast as of 5/14 seems to support the climb plan but if weather forecast significantly deteriorates we will cancel the climb.  The climb will NOT be turned into a one day car-to-car.
  • More details will be sent to registered participants via  planning email by 5/15. Please know the drive is 3-4 hours from Seattle area.

Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Creek

  • USGS Silver Star Mtn

    Green Trails Washington Pass No. 50

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • Snowshoes (based on conditions)
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Insulated (puffy) jacket
  • Rain jacket and rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves 
  • Overnight snow camping gear (tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, stove +gas, 1 dinner, 2 lunches and 1 breakfast plus snacks for two days)
Trip Reports