McMillan Spire/West Ridge


Basic Alpine Climb - McMillan Spire/West Ridge

Spectacular. Strenuous. Earn your summit.

  • Sat, Jul 24, 2021 — Mon, Jul 26, 2021
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Strenuous 5, Basic Alpine Climb
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 16.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 9,200 ft

Meeting time, place, gear and logistics will be coordinated by email Tues-Fri prior to the trip. Please be available by email to participate in this process.

Participants should have good scramble skills (steep snow + rock) and be confident of their ability to complete the noted elevation gain, much of which will be with an overnight pack. Leader has not done this route before. Everyone should be prepared to assist with navigation.

Please review the Mountaineer’s trip reports for this climb before deciding if it is right for you.

Day 1: Approach to camp ~7 miles with ~5800’ gain. This will include 3rd class scrambling and possibly some steep snow, all while carrying overnight packs.

Day 2: Climb W McMillan Spire ~5 miles with ~2900’ gain. Option to add Glee Peak (6,959’) will require additional +2 hours and 1,100’gain/loss RT from camp.

Day 3: Hike out ~7 miles with 500’ gain. Drive home.

 Leader holds a NCNP Terror Basin XC zone reservation for both nights.



McMillan Spire/West Ridge

  • Green Trails Mt Challenger No. 15

    Green Trails Marblemount No. 47

    USGS Mt Challenger

    USGS Mt Triumph

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports