Trip Report    

Top-Rope Ice - Heliotrope Ridge and Lower Coleman Glacier & Seracs

Fun day on the seracs in great weather.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The seracs were generally in good shape with quite a few significant cracks opening up down low on the glacier.  The hiking trail and climber's trail were in good shape (except for a few muddy spots), but one the creek crossings required some calf-deep wading in the morning and knee-deep wading in the afternoon.  (Participants variously took off shoes, changed socks, crossed in boots and gaiters.)IMG_1928.jpg

We left the trailhead just after 7:00AM and were the first party up on the glacier.  We had a brief safety discussion about walking on the glacier and walked up toward the seracs.

The leaders walked/scrambled up moderate terrain to set up two roughly 10-15m routes for top roping (one with a small bulge and then a 45-degree slope and one with some short vertical steps), and discussed various skills (building v-threads, traversing,  proper climbing form and technique) with the group in between top roping laps.


With some additional scouting, we were able to locate the moulin (approx. (48.7956389,-121.8613498)) that provided good vertical climbing from the September 20th outing and set up a top rope there.  The moulin had grown a bit in the three weeks and was not nearly as wet, as the previous water source (blue dot on the upper-mid-right of the image below) had apparently frozen up.


All of the participants had a chance to try out vertical climbing and experience the importance of technique and equipment choices.

We hiked out and were back at the cars at just about 5PM.  A fun and educational day was had by all.