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Trip Report    

Snowfield Peak/Neve Glacier

Climb Dates: 6/7-8/2014
The trail to Pyramid Lake was in good shape with a few downed trees. From the lake there were two climber’s trails (one on the west and the other on the south side of the lake) that merged a few hundred feet above the lake. We reached snow at 4,200 close to the ridge crest. The ridge crest had a few bumps with cliffs so it was better to stay low and traverse around those bumps on the climber’s right (north) side. When the snow melts the ridge is supposed to have a trail that would simplify the navigation. At around 4,600 we entered a gully and ascended to the ridge crest at 5,000 and then continued up a steep wooded slope to one of the many flat spots at 5,500 where we camped with great views of Colonial, Pyramid and other peaks. Next morning we started at 4am, ascended to the 5,800 col, traversed the steep east face of Pyramid Peak (area of potential avalanches triggered by cornice falls) and then ascended Colonial Glacier to Colonial-Neve Col at 6,860 (running water at the col). From there we dropped down 300ft and ascended Neve Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid of Snowfield Peak. Both glaciers were filled in very well and the snow conditions were perfect for kicking steps. The summit pyramid still had a lot of snow so we picked a snow finger (up to 45 degrees, protected with one picket) that brought us to a notch on the west ridge 100ft below the summit. There we stashed crampons and ice axes, crossed the ridge on a short ledge to the south side and then scrambled an easy 3rd class gully to the summit by 10am. We down climbed the climbing route to get off the pyramid, descended to the camp, and eventually got back to the trail head by 8pm. Overall the route was in great condition, and we had a strong and capable team.

  • Red Marker
    48.709812, -121.145004
    48.7098119365 -121.145003736
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    48.635405, -121.138453
    48.6354048 -121.1384528

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