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Trip Report    

Sahale Peak/Quien Sabe Glacier

Fantastic trip in great conditions

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The Cascade River Road is now open all the way to the  Cascade Pass Trailhead. Party of 6 left Boston Basin trailhead at 4AM. Encountered snow just above the Boston Basin campsites. We roped up in two teams with 30m glacier rope. Snow was firm to soft and made easy travel. The glacier has a few cracks but our upper longer route easily avoided them. The ridge is still partially covered with snow  and the cornices were huge but we made a route well back from the crest on the snow sections.  Snow was easy to climb and place pickets. Rock sections of the  ridge were very loose and challenging  to climb. We removed crampons to make the rock easier. Transitioning from snow to rock was a little difficult with some large deep moats. We placed  pickets and a few nuts  in a running belay to the summit  block.  We set up two trad anchors at the base of the block and  belayed the leaders to the  top and the simul-followers from the rappel anchor on the summit. We rappelled  with the two 30m ropes which almost made it to the snow below leaving only a short easy downclimb. Sahale glacier was  easy with only a few cracks at the edges. The trail down to Cascade Pass was intermittantly covered  with snow  and was a little hard to follow. 

    The trip was great with a really nice team of climbers.  Two climbers got their graduating climb - congrats!  The views along the way  were some of the best I have had in the mountains. 

     

Left trailhead at 4AM , summit at 3PM and down at the cars at 8PM

 

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