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Trip Report    

Primus Peak/Borealis Glacier

This is an amazing climb in an amazing area, but the approach should be taken seriously as it is more strenuous than most basic climbs.

A few notes:
Fill up with water. You'll need it.
Once across the bridge to McAllistar Camp, turn left at the first camp mark and follow the mix of braided trails up the ridge. The all converge into one. At 2300 ft, the first cliff band is encountered, and has some good class 3 and exposure. This will quickly set the tone for the rest of the 4000ft of suffering ahead.
The trail gets thinner the higher you get, but can be followed to 4700ft and a little knoll on the ridge. From here you descend slightly into the forested abyss where the bugs were horribly hungry. The trail then disappears, but you genially follow the ridge. A previous report said to exit left and get off the ridge. We never found it, and that was partially due to snow on the ridge. We followed snow patches and ramp, picking up bits of the trail beat into heather on occasion. 8 hrs to camp.
Day 2: The standard route reports going CCW around lake, but the water was high and none of us felt like swimming if we punched through the soft snow. We turned back and went CW around the lake. Luckily the snow plug across the lake outlet offered passage. We then followed a wide gully up to the right side of the Glacier. Crossed the glacier opting to go higher to avoid crevasses. The runout is bad for some of this traverse, but doable with care. We made it to the 7200ft col and unroped. Headed south a few hundred feet and jumped on scramble rock for 600ft until we hit snow under the "Twin Towers". The standard route on rock goes left around the towers and we did the same staying out of the gully on the right. Summit was one of the best.