Trip Report
Mount Rainier/Kautz Glacier
We climbed the Kautz Aug. 15-17. Route was in good condition, but will require increasingly complex crevasse navigation as the upper Kautz breaks up. Used Comet Falls approach, bivied at 10,500'. Running water below the Turtle around 7,400'. Found two pitches of ~AI2 separated by low angle ice steps, which we simulclimbed. Used at most six screws, including belay anchors. Once past the Kautz, the crossover to upper Nisqually was impassable. We headed for Point Success from top of Wapowety Cleaver instead. Carryover highly recommended. Other info: The fixed line down to the glacier is core shot near the bottom and showing significant wear. We opted to use our own rope, though the party behind us did not and survived to tell the tale. Tag Point Success while you're up there - we passed within a few hundred feet and I already regret not stopping by! Gear: one piolet + one tool, six screws, one picket each (used once, useless). 50m Rope
Nick Barnwell
- Fri, Aug 19, 2016 — Wed, Aug 17, 2016
- Mount Rainier/Kautz Glacier
- Climbing
- Successful
-
- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Used Comet Falls approach, bivied at 10,500'. Running water below the Turtle
around 7,400'. Found two pitches of ~AI2 separated by low angle ice steps, which
we simulclimbed. Used at most six screws, including belay anchors. Once past the
Kautz, the crossover to upper Nisqually was impassable. We headed for Point
Success from top of Wapowety Cleaver instead. Carryover highly recommended.
Other info: The fixed line down to the glacier is core shot near the bottom and showing
significant wear. We opted to use our own rope, though the party behind us did
not and survived to tell the tale. Tag Point Success while you're up there - we
passed within a few hundred feet and I already regret not stopping by!
Gear: one piolet + one tool, six screws, one picket each (used once, useless). 50m Rope