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Trip Report    

Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver

Aug 1~2, 2015. Low snowpack and hot summer led to glaciers being more broken than usual. Disappointment Cleaver route was no exception, with the climbing route at top of cleaver being routed west to Nisqually Cleaver with significant amount of end runs around crevasses. Two ladders were in place.

Met at P&R for carpool, then to MRNP. Started on trail around 9:20. Reached Camp Muir around 2:10. Crowded as usual, with full contingent of guided groups as well. Sleep was difficult for most due to excitement for the climb and noise from chatters, teams leaving or returning late, etc.

Per plan, woke up at midnight and left around 1:20 behind guided groups and most private teams. Significant end runs on Ingraham to reach the Cleaver, which was loose as usual. Top of Cleaver was reached well before sunrise per plan. Above the Cleaver, the route was marked with wands abundantly while boot tracks were clear and easily followed. However, the route was involved, having sections with huge exposure, numerous crevasses, and significant amount of end runs to get around crevasses. Team reached crater rim at 9AM - later than hoped, but reasonable considering the challenges. Except for a team member suffering bad headache (likely from altitude), all reached the summit. We were told that guided group were departing at 11PM and midnight. We ran into guide and clients turning around, but never caught up an actual guided group. We also heard one party that did a sunset climb to avoid the crowds, returning to camp around 10PM.

[Side note] Leader secured a wilderness camping permit the day prior at Paradise Climbing Information Center. Arriving before its opening time of 7AM, he was alone until others showed up around 6:45.