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Trip Report    

Mount Olympus/Blue Glacier

Fri 20 June to Sun 22 June 2014.
Trail is clear of blowdown to Glacier Meadows and beyond. A steep ladder descent is required about 1/4 mi before Glacier Meadows. We camped on dirt with access to running water. From lateral moraine, continue along moraine crest to dip where snow slopes meet the top. Do not climb up and immediately descend moraine; too much loose dirt and rock. Blue glacier crossing in great shape, no large crevasses. Snow slopes on Snow Dome also in great shape. Slopes to climber's right on ascent of Snow Dome are less steep. A large crevasse cuts across the entire steep face of the 4th of July route; avoid. We took Crystal Pass which also has large crevasses below the pass that can be passed on climber's left. From Crystal Pass to False summit route is in good shape. Summit block has loose rock, take great care. We climbed a NE corner route which I do not recommend. Better to climb the N face. Moat is very deep in some places; approach summit block on snow only. Rappel from existing rap anchor down N face. A 60m rope allows for a single-rap; otherwise double-rap is required. 9 hours TH to camp; 6 hours camp to base of summit block; 2 hours for group of six to ascend to summit; 2 hours for lounging and rap back onto snow; 3 hours false summit to camp; 8 hours camp to TH.

 

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