Mount Jefferson/Jefferson Park Glacier

Whitewater trail has a pleasant grade, is well-maintained and easy to follow, except where covered by snow.  Encountered consistent snow cover at about 5500ft.  Beginning 2016, Memorial Day weekend campsite reservation system is in effect.  However, we did not find any campsite numbers, due to complete snow cover, so chose a campsite at the far end of Scout Lake.  There were about three or four other parties camping in the area. 

The Jefferson Park Glacier was in good condition.  Traveled mostly up the left side of the glacier.  Passed one crevasse around climbers right. Headed straight toward the “V” at the base of the Mohler Tooth.  Crossed the ‘schrund on a small bridge to the right of the “V”.  Note: bridge will probably be gone in two weeks. Arrived at the top of the Smith Rock-Mohler Tooth saddle around 9:30.  The gendarme and boulder field leading to the knife-edge ridge were covered with rime ice.  Although we had ice screws and ice tools, this section was just not protectable, with severe fall hazard.  Likewise, the summit pinnacle was shrouded in rime ice. We elected to turn around here.  Note: three other parties on the mountain and all elected to turn around.

The descent down to the ‘schrund was somewhat tedious as the snow was becoming softer and steps had to be carefully made or they would blow out. Descent down the Jefferson Park Glacier was just the reverse of the ascent.  The snow had softened considerably so made good plunge stepping.