Mount Hood/Leuthold Couloir

We hiked to Illumination Saddle and camped on Saturday night. We started late Sunday (6:45). The wind blew all night, and despite the forecast of 10K+ freezing level, it was well below freezing. We roped up at camp, dropped to the Reid and crossed to the route and started up.

The Bergshrund was a non-issue and easily avoided. We simulsolo'd to the base of the hourglass. I let my student lead that pitch, placing two pickets and building an anchor. We then simulsolo'd the rest of the route. Time to summit was 5 hours. We descended the Pearly Gates and hiked out without incident. Camp to summit to cars was 9.5 hours total.