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Trip Report    

Magic Mountain/South Ridge

Beautiful area. This climb requires being comfortable spending significant amounts of time in exposed terrain.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  •  This was a fun climb in large part because everyone was really strong. If we had people that were not comfortable with exposure the climb would not have been successful. We did rope up for the glacier to cashe col and set a hand line for the final 40 ft to the summit. From koolaid lakes go directly up to the saddle between Magic and Hurry Up Peak. There is a trail on the left side of the ridge. Follow it until it forces you onto the ridge. Then follow the ridge until you see the intimidating and impossible spires. Travel down and around the spires to the right. There is a chimney to downclimb along the wall. Don’t do it. There is a better way to get around down below you.  Continue until you see a gully with white quartz on the skyline. Climb up over the quartz then left up to the gully around to the right of the summit block. This gully is scary loose. Go one at a time and we used a hand line. We had someone knock a rock loose and the chain effect made it look like a wheelbarrow full of rocks had been shot out of a cannon. 

 

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