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Trip Report    

Little Devil Peak

Beautiful and strenuous late season trip (to avoid Moulins) of ~14 miles and ~7000'.

  • Mon, Oct 19, 2015
  • Little Devil Peak
  • Scrambling
  • Successful
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

This report is for a successful trip on 10/18/2015 in which we had mostly whiteout conditions with a few glimpses here and there. Due to travel over ice this trip should be limited to scramble graduates with crampon skills (see route description below). With various ups and downs (descent of ~400' to Monogram Lake, descent of ~200' to saddle 5478) the total elevation gain is (7000-1200) + 2(600) = 7000 feet over ~15 miles. Total time was ~12 hours with 7 up and 5 down. Our route was largely motivated by avoiding wet brush and involved the use of the minor ridge SE of Monogram Lake:
* Cross to south side of Monogram Lake outlet stream
* Pass over Pt 5009, then head in ~ESE direction to obtain crest of ridge trending SW to NE.
* Follow boot path over point 5685, then descend to saddle at 5478'.
* Ascend rounded ridge in NNW direction to ~6150' (on descent a waypoint here is useful in hitting this ridge in whiteout conditions ;)
* Traverse NE into basin S of Little Devil with stagnant glacier
* Don crampons and head ~N to cross the stagnant glacier being careful to avoid various slumps as well as small (and not so small) Moulins. Spotting these hazards is easiest in late summer or fall when snow has melted.
* After crossing onto rock, ascend ledges to the right until able to access other ledges leading up and to the left to reach the col at ~6600'.
* Ascend ridge to the E, then move a bit right up higher to reach a notch in the ridge trending SSE to NNW.
* From notch in ridge crest scramble a bit north to reach the summit.

Photos from this trip can be seen here.