Trip Report    

Lane Peak/Lovers Lane (winter)

Success climb of the Lover's Lane couloir

  • Sat, Feb 25, 2017
  • Climbing
  • Successful
  • Snow and ice on road
  • Massive amounts of snow in the Lover Lane couloir.  Progress was slow due to snow depth.  Did not need to place any protection.  Most difficult section was just before gaining the ridge, where the snow was relatively unconsolidated and it was hard to find good crampon placements on the rock underneath.

    Transition at the rappel station was tricky and we belayed that section from the ridge proper to the rappel anchor.  Used double rope rappel into The Zipper couloir.  Windy conditions so used saddlebag technique to keep the ropes under control.  Took some time to clear the ropes after completing the rappel.  Descended The Zipper.

    Time: 8:15 car to car

General Activity Notes:

Followed standard winter route to the north side of Lane Peak.  Met several other parties heading over to climb The Fly.  Cached snowshoes at the base of the couloir in a grove of trees.

Driving / parking notes:

Carpooled in one vehicle from Longmire parking lot.  Chains required on Paradise road beyond Longmire.  Paradise road gate opened at 9:00am.  We returned to the gate around 6:30pm to find that it was already locked.  Team member was able to find a ranger in the Longmire complex to open the gate for us.

Equipment notes: 

Carried and used snowshoes, ropes (60m), ice axe, crampons. Carried but did not use pickets, screws, second tool, rock pro. 

Weather Notes: 

Weather started as mostly cloudy, with a couple of sun breaks.  Weather deteriorated over the course of the day, with light snow and windy.  In particular, setting up the rappel was cold and windy; better conditions in The Zipper couloir.

NWAC forecast: Moderate, with primary risk factor loose, wet slides on south aspects.

Permits required?

MRNP entrance permit.