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Kaleetan Peak/South Route

When up the white ledges and down the south ridge. From Melakwa Lake went clock wise around Melakwa Lake. Crossed the outlet of Upper Melakwa Lake and circled counter clockwise around Upper Melakwa Lake. The whole Melakwa valley is covered in talus. We stayed on the climbers right as we moved quickly through the talus on our way toward Melakwa Pass. Just bellow Melakwa pass we crossed the valley moving left. The white ledges will come in view a couple hundred feet above Melakwa Pass. To get to the base of the "white ledges" cross some wet rock or continue going up hill finding a short hidden walk-up move up gully on the right. On the "white ledges" you can go up any way you desire. Its all about the same level of difficulty. The ledges are not always clean though.

A safety note. There was a stack of large rocks in the middle of the ledges. As we scrambled above them we accidentally let a small rock loose to our surprise when it hit the stack of boulders it moved it. We were glad that it didn't go crashing down to the bottom of the ledges because if anyone was bellow it, it would of been fatal. So until these come loose probably this winter beware of the danger from above.

As we exit the ledges it was a short walk to the base of Kaleetan. The last bit of scrambling to the top is on easy low angled rock. We had a long summit stay enjoying the views.

We descended down the south ridge on a good climber trail. Before you get to the pt 5700 drop down 250' to the right (west) to the base of the ridge as you bypass a narrow section of the ridge. Quickly regain the ridge and take it to the pt 5700. Continue to follow the climbers trail to Melakwa Lake. If you find your self in whiteout conditions make sure you move down the east ridge from pt 5700 as you make your way to the lake.

10.5-11hrs roundtrip.

  • Red Marker
    47.415314, -121.443386
    47.4153141503 -121.443386078
  • Red Marker
    47.462334, -121.478428
    47.4623341 -121.4784276

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