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Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Sherpa Peak/West Ridge

8-9 July - two day climb of Sherpa Peak from Esmeralda Basin TH.

  • Road rough but passable
  • Road to TH still blocked about a mile from TH.

Two day climb of Sherpa Peak.  We did not summit as we arrived at first pitch at 1800 and far too late to start. 

Road is still blocked a mile from TH.  Trail is snow free the entire route.  The Ingalls Creek Crossing tree is still in place and it good condition.  We had water available up to 7,400 feet.  

We had a few minor route finding issues that cost us big time.  At 5,000 we crossed the meadow and drainage.  We went too far climbers right to ascend to 5,800 so we had some bushwacking.  On the return trip we stayed climbers left and it was much easier.  At 5,800 we crossed the ridge to the basin and stayed too high on climbers left in the boulder field.  We should have descended the slope a little for better walking up to 6,200 camp. We camped at 6,200 in the middle of the stream on a sand bar.  From 6,200 camp we again stayed too far climbers right  and was drawn up the wrong drainage.  We traversed back climbers left and back on route at about 7,200 over a small rocky ridge with trees.  We arrived at 8,100 notch (start of climb) at 1800 and far to late to climb.  

The climb from 5,000 to 5,800 and 6,200 to 8,100 can best be described as arduous.  There was a lot of early season loose rocks  throughout the route and it was difficult to not dislodge them.  This slowed our climb down as we kept a good distance between climbers.  Later in the season some of those should already be released.  We began to scramble the first pitch (before we realized it was the first pitch) and  there were several large loose rocks on route so be careful where you set up your belay.

We didn't give ourselves enough time to complete the route.  We will list again in late season and will spend two nights.

  • Red Marker
    47.436777, -120.936867
    47.4367767164 -120.936866999
  • Red Marker
    47.472063, -120.888700
    47.4720626 -120.8886996

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