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Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Le Petit Cheval/Spontaneity Arête

Awesome company, solid rock, efficient climbing and a beautiful day after 10 smoky days.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

6:30am- Trail Start

7:40am- Reached base of rock climb

8:10 Climb Start

12:00pm- Reached summit

1:15pm- Back to packs at base of climb

2:25pm- Back to car


Follow the bootpack/trail going down into the valley from the pullout. Follow the obvious climbers trail until you reach cool cave.

Trend slight left from here(follow cairns). As of 9/21/20 there are 3 fixed lines and as mentioned in other trip reports.


Gear: single rack, doubles of .75 and 1

We climbed as a party of 4  in two rope teams.   Rock quality is really good and presents a lot of options to place pro. Climb is generally straight forward except finding the start of pitch 3 which we scrambled until we realized we're at the base of pitch 4. 

Pitch 1 has an interesting start with a few moves of moderate hand crack. 

Pitch 2 has a horn at the crux move that can be used in conjunction with crack.

Pitch 4 has a really cool finger/hand crack section. There are multiple options, use two crack system or bear hug it to finish the pitch at a ledge or  a tree. 

Pitch  5 and 6 are straight forward, just follow the arete. 

Pitch 7, Goldie crack was  groups' favorite. Start the climb from below the crack to add an interesting boulder problem. The short pitch has a good rest stops after every 2-3 moves.


We chose to take the gully all the way down since no-one else was on the mountain. One Rap from start of short scramble that goes to summit to the gully. Follow the bootpack all the way to the base of pitch 1. Approach stays right of the gully for the first half of the descent. Cross to the left side  when gully gets narrow. Keep an eye on the roof boulder on pitch 2 to gauge your position.