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Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Guye Peak/South Gully-South Spur

Fantastic Intermediate Climb

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • On March 3, 2017 consistently soft snow and climbing around chockstones were the primary difficulties encountered.

This is a fantastic intermediate climb.  Quite frankly, I was surprised, given how much of the online beta suggests this climb is no more than a casual jaunt.  Ultimately much, much, much more interesting than the Zipper; every bit as demanding as Chair Peak's NE Buttress. 

This was our first time on the route, and so we ended up taking additional precautions so far as ropes/protection (roping up lower than was necessary, for example) that in hindsight could have been avoided.  But any Mountaineer not making use of ropes on this route would have a very hard time explaining any incident to their Branch's safety chair.

The few "crux" type sections were getting around ~3 chockstones.  Required real mixed technique to do so - sometimes thin ice, sometimes rock, sometimes snice, sometimes worthless powder.  Very fun, thoughtful, climbing.  Fortunately, while pro was scarce throughout, there seemed to be a good cam placement right before each of these crux moves.

We parked at the West Summit lot and it was 11 hours car to car for our party of four.  This includes some delay waiting for a party ahead of us; and more significant time lost on the wrong choice of approach, and temptertantrums from "the angry snowshoer" on the way down. 

 

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