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Trip Report    

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Chimney Rock/East Face Direct

A full 2 day trip with lots of fun and athletic rock climbing, interest approach, easy glacier and fantastic bivy site.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • No Moat issues,  lots of cleaning up rap anchors, and created interest route down.  Other  parties could save time taking this way down.  

Moat access was pretty easy to access and didn't need an Ice Axe. Use a .2 to #3 rack the number 3 was placed on every pitch. The first pitch was the hardest but best protection. The climb has several athletic moves in the range of 5.4 to 5.6 of climbing. There's plenty of run out and route finding on the route so do some research before doing climb. We bivy at the Key ledge (no water) and summited in the morning of second day. A 5.5 chimney move is need to gain the summit. on descent we did 5 raps, then downclimb the white rock area and regain the direct route and did 3 raps (50m rope would be too short to reach raps). I placed new raps webbing up on the top and backup one rap down low with a nut and then created a new rap station with three nuts. Some reports I read did double raps to reduce number of raps