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Trip Report    

Ingalls Peak/South Ridge

We beat the rain and had a successful climb

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The approach through the talus was not fun.  The rains from the day before loosened up the gravel and dirt and made the approach worse than walking in sand.  We switched to the larger rock (boulders)  and made good progress.   The wind was bitter cold and we had gusts of +25 mph on the upper mountain.

The weather report all week was iffy at best.  The Saturday forecast dropped to 20% chance of rain until 4 pm then up to 50% and then 80% by evening.  We decided to at least give it a go and we were rewarded with a great climb.  It didn't start sprinkling until we were at the cars and finished with the debrief.  Everyone climbed safe and efficient!  The wind on the face was strong,  we had gusts up to and over 25 mph on the 2nd, 3rd and at the top.  The temperature was in the 30-40's, hard to tell because of the wind chill.

All rope leads had 70m ropes.

To beat the incoming weather, we left the trailhead at 5:10 We arrived at the base of the climb at 8:30 (wet talus took some time).  We scrambled up to about 25 ft. below the chockstone, right where the slabs take over the climb.  This is where we roped up and began an anchorless lead belay.

Our first pitch, we climbed the beginning short slab section, then through the boulders past the normal first belay station (webbing around large rocks), up another short slab section to our second belay station (webbing around a large boulder), just below the main crack system.


Our Second pitch (regular 3rd pitch) was the main crack system seen in all the pictures for this climb.  All leads opted for the 5.6 variant  That crack is very smooth and slick from all the traffic.  One should have good faith in their feet placement on this route because there isn't a lot of handholds and wedging your cold hand in slick rock doesn't give you a lot of confidence.   This isn't a problem, you just have to use good feet placement and not worry about your hands. I was able to place a cowbell! I brought a couple of Hexes just to see if I could use one and found a perfect location where a cam wouldn't work.   There are bolts at the top of this pitch at a ledge where two can easily stand. 


Our third pitch was the short climb up a short slab/crack left of the bolts, then to a scramble up the side of a dihedral, to an open book to top out.  There are bolts to the left, belay up from there.

We all topped out at about 10:30-11:00.


1st rappel, from the bolts on top to the bolts below.  This is a low anchor rappel - some call it a sit and spin, but it shouldn't be the sit and smack that some people teach!

2nd rappel from ledge bolts.  A 70m rope (with end knots) reaches just to the rock ledge above the belay webbing.  You can go off rappel and walk 5 feet to the webbing anchor. 

3rd rappel,  down the short slab, through the boulders, over the ledge with the chockstone on it (15-20) feet away and down to the start of the slab.  There is a nice rock to stand on to get off rappel, right at your knots.  Downclimb from this point. 
We were all off the rock at around 12:30-1:00 pm and back to the cars a 3:57 (we all beat our 4:00 goal!)  Just under 11 hours C2C.

We had the climb to ourselves until the last rappel, a group of three were at the belay station we skipped so there were no issues. Four other teams were coming up while we were down climbing after the rappels and at the base and another pair turned around early after seeing the number of climbers.