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Trip Report    

Glacier Climb - Sahale Peak/Quien Sabe Glacier

Successful One day climb Quien Sabe glacier/ Sahale Peak. Returning via Cascade pass.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The trail, Stream crossings and Glacier were all in great condition. We crossed one snow bridge going up the middle of the Quien Sabe that might be questionable in a couple weeks. However This could have been avoidable with better visibility. Three good rap slings and rings on the summit.

This trip was originally planned for Two days but with weather moving in and unknown camping permit options we opted for Friday only. After rolling in late and car camping at Cascade pass trailhead We left 2 cars there and drove down to the Boston basin trailhead for a 3am start. 

The weather report was for partly cloudy but clearing skies and sun by mid day This did not happen. As we approached Boston basin the fog was setting in and did not let up the entire trip.   Around 7am we roped on the foot of the glacier left of center according to Gaia GPS. With very little visibility we navigated around ice and minor crevasses attempting to locate tracks from other groups. After crossing the large crevasse in the center of the glacier we turned SE toward the summit and eventually found a boot track leading up to the Boston/Sahale col. At 10am we started up the ridge on rock then back on snow for a short somewhat steep traverse over to the summit block. Pickets were set on the traverse but the snow was soft and safe enough with an ice axe. I set a hand line for the final pitch to the summit and our group of 7 were on top by 11:30. A brief snow fall started just as we prepped for the rappel. Unable to see our landing zone we decided to be safe and use a double rope rappel to reach the snow on the Sahale glacier side of the summit block. Note: We had to scramble back up 50' or so after rappelling to far off the (climbers right) side of the ridge. This would probably be obvious if you could see more than 50 feet. Around 1:30 Back on the snow we located tracks that led us along the edge of the edge of the glacier and down the Sahale arm. Back to the cars around 6:30 via the dreaded switch back trail of cascade pass. Despite the weather issues our trip went quite well and on schedule.

  • Red Marker
    48.627102, -120.997849
    48.6271019979 -120.997849273
  • Red Marker
    48.491104, -121.038480
    48.4911040195 -121.038479805

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Scott Hollis
Scott Hollis says:
Sun, Jul 17, 2016 11:27 AM

Here's the Gaia GPS track: