Trip Report    

Glacier Climb - Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

loop trip using the torment creek approach and return via the standard route. standard route in perfect condition. also did the dorado thimble aka pt7733, a very fun scramble.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

eldorado plus dorado thimble aka pt7733      7-23 -7-24-2016

quick and dirty route info: drive .7mi past eldorado trailhead(just after two bridges), park at small turnout on south side of road(3 cars max), find cairned climber's path north of road.  path heads up along torment creek, turns to brush at ~'4600, ascend brush and boulders, cross creek in brush ~4950' ,  head north to get out of brush(brush ends ~5000'), do a rising traverse to the torment/eldorado col, follow ridge to camp at~7100' , take ridge to inspiration glacier, take it to join the standard eldorado route. 

dorado thimble: approach from the wnw, up moderately steep snow, then pleasant class 2 to summit

14.97mi 7990' gain  (day one 4.91mi 4943' gain, day two 9.86mi 3032' gain)

 7:29 car to 7100' camp (wnw of torment) (2:30 car to 4600' on climber's trail, 1:20 from 4600' to 5000' in brush, 3:40 from 5000' via rising traverse to camp at 7100')
 3:23 camp to dorado thimble summit
 0:08 summit stay
 2:16 dorado thimble summit to eldorado summit
 0:34 summit stay
 7:10 eldorado summit to car  (including 0:10 to jog/walk road back .7mi back to car and 0:03 to drive car back .7mi)
13:31 total day two
21:00 car to car (not including overnight camping)
drive time: 2:30 eldorado trailhead to 65th p&r(with two stops)

equipment: ice axe, crampons, (2)30m ropes, 50m rope, harness, helmet
equipment brought, but not used: 3 pickets
thanks to jim nelson for the route idea :>)

Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier Route Map

  • Red Marker
    48.492681, -121.122031
    48.4926811682 -121.122030616
  • Red Marker
    48.537625, -121.134283
    48.5376255 -121.1342831

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