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Trip Report    

Glacier Climb - Clark Mountain & Luahna Peak

Current conditions are ideal and well worth the effort.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Road to T/H washed out adding 1.8 miles each way.  Bug, and lots of them all the way to the Boulder Creek cut off.  No problem after that.
    Trail is snow free until you reach Boulder Basin.  Trail above the basin except for the last 400ft.

    The Walrus is in fantastic shape.

Day 1:  approach to Boulder Pass took 8 hrs.  Last bit up to camp was steep hard snow.  There is water near camp, but one must search.
Day 2: From camp, climbers can do the high traverse on the left or the steep 300ft down climb directly north.  We opted for the down climb, and chose a 45 deg slope farther east on the ridge.
Once in the lower basin north of camp, head west and take the right most gully to the ridge above the Walrus.
The glacier has a few obvious cracks.  Once above the steep slope in the center of the route we traversed left under the bergshrund hopping a few small cracks all the way the the summit block. This is typical "Z" route.
Summit block looks much steeper from a distance but is nearly loose class 2 once above the snow finger.  4.5 hrs to summit.
The decent of the glacier was easy except the steep portion required face in and solid steps for 400 ft as the snow was very soft on top of hard.
Day 3:  Got up at 3:30 and at cars by 10:30.  5.5 hrs. 

 

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