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Trip Report    

Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

2 day climb in order to enjoy a most stunning high camp and a summit sunset!
The route is in great condition. We roped up at the base of the Eldorado glacier. Some crevasses at the transition to the flat Inspiration glacier, easy to navigate. Very thin crevasses on Inspiration glacier.

Ranger station 7am, left TH by 9am, reached camp at 4pm. There is a pond of snow melt at the E end of camp, fresh enough to pump water. The compost toilet barely beats blue bagging. Views from camp are stunning.

We left camp for a summit bid by 6pm, reached the summit by 7:30pm. Climbing up to the ridge was ok, though things start to break up. There is a distinct Bergschrund at the N end of the ridge. The track currently passes is on the E side. That snow bridge's days seem numbered though. Time for pickets. The knife edge itself was in great condition, even that late in the day. We watched a great sunset from the summit and were back at the camp site within 45min.

Easy start on Sunday, started descending by 8am. An accident held us up for about 1.5 hours. Happily back at the cars by 4pm.

We highly recommend this set up of this climb. Long day on Saturday, sleeping in and views on Sunday, hard to beat!

  • Red Marker
    48.492681, -121.122031
    48.4926811682 -121.122030616
  • Red Marker
    48.537625, -121.134283
    48.5376255 -121.1342831

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