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Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

We had a fun and straightforward climb on the South Early Winter Spire, South Arete route. Takeaway : there's a new Rappel station between 1st and 2nd pitch, above the chimney. use it to break down 60m Rappel into 2 30m Rappels.

Ashish Rawat Ashish Rawat
August 01, 2023
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

We started the climb around 10am and, since it was a Monday, we had the entire route to ourselves going up.

The climb was straight forward and enjoyable. There were some loose rocks in the gully above pitch 1 that required careful climbing. A full 60m rope length pitch let us climb from the top of the first pitch (rappel bolts) to the top of the gully.

After camel back traverse, we scrambled up the solid rock on climbers right and took the gully to descend.

We missed seeing an intermediate rappel chains(probably new) halfway up between pitch 1 and 2. We did a double rope length rappel from the top of pitch 1 to 2. We saddle bagged to set up the rappel and set up a redirect to keep the rappel line on solid rock (to the right of the gully). The rappel went smooth, but in the future, I highly recommend breaking it down into 2 30m rappels and utilizing the intermediate chains.

We got down to the cars by 2pm.
Overall, it was a great trip and we all had a wonderful time climbing. Only saw one more party climbing up when we were Rappelling.