Trip Report    

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier

Route is in good condition with minimal crevasse hazard at the moment, and only short snow sections on the summit block.

  • Road rough but passable
  • Snow patches on the trail began around 3800. Water flowing rapidly in parts of the trail as the snowmelt fills the tread.  More or less totally snow from the park boundary. High camp toilets reportedly available but I never saw them. Climbing route to summit block in great condition. Good boot pack emerged around 7500 that wove between any potential crevasse hazards. Did not spot any significant crevasses but they will begin to emerge in the days ahead. Summit block is in excellent condition, though precautions to avoid causing rockfall is required. Summit block included navigating steep snow in crampons lower down, then transition to boots to finish. We used 60m ropes and used 3 double rope rappels from good stations to descend. If we had 4 ropes instead of two it would have greatly sped our descent.  17 hours from high camp to summit and back to cars.

Road has many large potholes.  It is close to requiring high-clearance vehicles, but not quite.  Northwest forest pass required at trailhead.  Good toilet facility at trailhead.  Great flat campsites at around 6,400 ft. on snow.  There are reportedly backcountry toilets in this area but I did not see them on this trip.  It took our leisurely moving party 5 hours from car to high camp and 17 hours from high camp to summit and back to cars.  DSCF8972.JPG