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Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier

Dense fog, high winds and temperatures below freezing prevented getting to the top of the summit pyramid.

  • Road rough but passable
  • Snow from about 5000 feet on up.  Did not find the solar toilet at high camp (6,400).  Just one section of crevasses discovered.  At about 7,600 feet the climbers route gets pinched between a large crevasse and the steep drop-off to the west.  We crossed a snow bridge to climbers left of this crevasse, and encountered signs that previous climbers had punched through nearby.  I'm not sure what will happen to this area as the season progresses and the snow melts.  Perhaps the crevasse will remain passable to climbers left, or perhaps climbers will need to seek a way around it to climber's right.

Low ground clearance vehicles should allow extra time to navigate potholes and ruts.  Our trip was conducted entirely in the fog.  High winds and freezing temperatures above 8,000 feet, combined with the fog  prevented an attempt on the summit pyramid.  We couldn't even see it from our high point at 8,400 ft.  

 

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Paul Brown
Paul Brown says:
Jun 27, 2019 09:14 AM

I punched through on that crevasse on our June 8-9 trip (https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/trip-reports/basic-glacier-climb-mount-shuksan-sulphide-glacier), and I've read other trip reports (Facebook groups) that indicated similar issues in the same spot. We made our return trip in a wide loop that went along the other (eastern) side of the bench and didn't encounter any crevasses or issues.