Placeholder Routes & Places

Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak/South Side

fun snow for skiing, but will be melting out soon

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

we did have to deal with a moat at the top of the last gully, but it did not slow the group up much as modern was ahead of us and figured out the best way to slay it.  on the way up he scrambled it in ski boots and dropped a hand line down for the rest of us to use for a short, two foot, step across, followed by 5 feet of class 3 scrambling up.  on descent, modern was far enough ahead that he had a short rap setup for our arrival.  it all went quick as modern  was again efficient.  last year the moat was a lot bigger when we did stevens peak and exited the top gully working class3+ scramble terrain climber's left.  this year we did not feel into scrambling that in ski boots.

quick and dirty route info:  take trail and/or snow to snow lake and then up gully sw of lake.  at top of gully head up se to top of upper gully, if a moat ,slay it, then up to summit block - for climb route, generally the right hand side of south face works well.   for scrambling, work clockwise around to east side and go up easy class 2/3 that stiffens the last couple of feet from the summit to class 4(some may call it 5.0)

6.26mi 2971' gain
4:37 car to base of climb (including an extra 0:20 messing with a handline at the moat at the top of the last gully)
1:34 climbing and break time
2:17 base of climb to car  (including an extra 0:21 rapping the moat at the top of the last gully)
8:27 car to car

equipment: skis, harness, helmet, ice axe, rock shoes for the summit block, modern used a few cams, 32m rope is perfect length(30m would be too short for rap)
equipment brought, but not used: boot crampons, (others used ski crampons, i did not)

unicorn 5-28-2019 route.JPG