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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak/South Side

Beautiful, fun climb

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Snow is continuous from the snow finger on. Moat below the saddle is easy to navigate.

We set out at 8 AM in mist that quickly burned off to reveal a bluebird day. The boulder field was melted out above Snow lake but the steep snow finger (gully) was in good shape, with nice firm snow. We had a fun time practicing kicking steps as we worked our way up to the saddle. In the past I've gone up a few 4th class moves to get to the shoulder, but this time I found a better route lower and to the climber's left that leads across a narrow ledge then switchbacks up to the saddle with much less exposure--highly recommended, especially as the snow recedes. Moat was no problem. We did the 5.0 class climb on a handline and then rapped off the dead tree. One of these days it won't be there any more! Beautiful views of Rainier, Hood, Adams, St Helens. Great easy climb! Returned to our cars shortly before 6 pm. The drive home can be faster via HW410 (around the back side of the Mountain) due to road construction on the Longmire side.