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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak/South Side

This is a quick fun trip that involves some snow/rock scrambling and a short 5.easy rock pitch at the top.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • The trail to Snow Lake is free from snow.  No unexpected hazards from the lake to the summit block, though keep an eye out for obstacles as things continue to melt out.

    Beyond the lake you can choose to travel on talus or snow until the gully at 5200' where you'll stop to put on helmets and get out ice axes.  Snow was a little stiff but OK for kick stepping without crampons, though you might prefer crampons for extra security.  No moats or anything weird up through the gully all the way to the saddle between West Unicorn and Unicorn.  Most of us took the direct 15' rock scramble up the blocky step at the saddle, though you can traverse maybe 20' up and left and then back right and up through the trees.  There is a bunch of tat and some rings/quick-links on trees at the scramble step if you want to rap on the way down, we just down-scrambled.  From the scramble step at the ridge it's a quick traverse around to the summit block, we saw maybe one or two bits of ice under the snow cover, so keep an eye out.  No moats or anything funky at the block.  Tons of tat and two rings on the dead stump.  The stump is actually pretty solid all things considered.  I took a quick look for potential bolted anchor locations but the rock is so broken on the summit that doesn't seem like an option.