
Trip Report
Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak
road open to the trailhead. snow practically from the car. the moat/schrund is just starting to open up.
- Wed, Jun 22, 2022
- Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak
- Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks
- Climbing
- Successful
- Road suitable for all vehicles
road open to the trailhead. snow practically from the car. the moat/schrund is just starting to open up. we were able to cross it carefully going up, but on descent we belayed it. on belayed down climb i broke through the moat, but my ice axe self belay kept me safe. still i was glad we used a tree for an anchor so modern could belay us with a rope attached just in case. after belaying us down climbing the moat, modern cleaned the anchor and then skied over it on descent.
at the snow free summit block, i scrambled up the back side like usual(a bit more things came loose there over the winter/spring) and then belayed the others up. great corn snow. no wonder they named it uni-corn :>)
~6mi ~3000' gain
3:52 car to summit block
1:37 scramble summit, belay others up, summit stay, rap down, transitions
2:10 summit block to car (including 0:17 dealing with/belaying the moat)
7:39 car to car
equipment: skis, ski crampons, 37m rope, no pro, helmet, harness, rock shoes, ice axe
equipment brought, but not used: crampons, picket