Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Sahale Peak/Quien Sabe Glacier

Amazing and beautiful views of whole north cascade on this climb. You will get everything from approach , bushwhacking , route finding , glacier and rock.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Route is in good condition , overall drive to TH was good. Its a climbers beaten trail with some fallen trees and few small streams but its really in good condition.

We started 5:00 AM first dropped climbers and all backpacks on Boston basin trailhead and drove to Cascade Arm TH to park the cars  and then hiked back three of us back to Boston Basin TH (~.7 mile).

 It was around 5:30 when we had boots on the trial , its  called climbers trail as you see fallen trees and bushes on the trail however its well beaten trail  you can easily follow the trail. The starting elevation is 3200 ft keep following the trail in the forecast you will pass few small streams and at around 5500 ft you will come out from the forest area .

At this point  you have to get off the trail to go towards the Sahale approach right side , other trail continue to go towards forbidden peak. So keep right and start gaining the elevation you will actually come in the open and beautiful boston basin and you also see the open area with so many slabs and running water . Find you way to gain elevation and cross the running water once you gain around 1200 ft you will see two ways to approach the glaciers right side (steep)  or left side (mellow) approach , at around 7000 ft you will almost entering the Glacier.

We put our harnesses and roped up here and made the teams of 3 climbers for each rope team.  It was around 9:15 AM when we reached the glacier so snow was still firm we had crampons on which made much easy to walk on firm snow.  We took the left side the mellow approach and just went to left and started traversing towards sharkfin tower its around 7600 ft when you keep traversing towards Sahale mountain at around 8100 ft there is big crevasse to cross. One is little sketchy area with lots of fallen rocks and snow debris and other move 50 ft further there is snow bridge which is melting fast we took the snow bridge and crossed the crevasse .

At around 8550 ft you will just reached to the ridge of the Sahale , we unropped and took the crampons off .  We had 2 parties ahead of us ,group of 3 and group of 4 so we took extra time to let them go first on summit.  After wait we started going towards the ridge and on top of the ridge there was snow it was around 11:45 and snow was still firm so we put the crampons only  passed this snow section and reached below the summit pyramid . Other parties were still belaying the leader and it was slow so we took a good rest there again and waited to lead and setup a static line. We had to wait 40 mins for our turn to go up and setup a static line. Its just a scramble with one crux move you can carry one number 8 nut or .75 cam to put one piece in the rock for this move.

At summit there is rep setup around the big boulder with 2 x 1 inch webbings and 1 x 7mm cordelette with rap ring and link .  Here we had true traffic congestion as the party of 7-8 climbers was on Summit from Sahale side so we had to wait further 50 mins to get our rap setup and bring our climbers on Summit  . Summit can accommodate 6-8 climbers so we quickly started bringing our climbers up and other side rap was setup (we had 2 x 30 m ropes)  so we setup double rope . Due to congestion and repelling all climbers safely one by one and after repelling the last portion  of 150ft of down climbing we reached all safely at the base of  other side of pyramid around 4:30 PM. At this point we took the harness and crampon off and took the Sahale Glacier to go down snow was soft we just walked down to the camp site . There was no running water on camp site so we continue going down  before starting the meadow trail we found the running water where we filled the water and than just followed the beautiful Sahale arm trail 6 miles back to the car . Overall beautiful perfect day with awesome views and with strong group of climber it was an epic trip.