Trip Report
Basic Alpine Climb - Devils Thumb/Southeast Route
A straight-forward, beautiful one-day alpine trip off the Mountain Loop Hwy to a small, craggy peak.
Edward Palushock
- Sun, May 7, 2017
- Basic Alpine Climb - Devils Thumb/Southeast Route
- Devils Thumb/Southeast Route
- Climbing
- Successful
- Road suitable for all vehicles
-
The gate at Deer Creek raod is open, so we were able to drive up to the trail head proper at Coal Creek Road. We reached snow about 2 miles up Coal Creek Road, and were able to travel consistently on snow up to the base of the short Class 4 rock section below the summit block. A few class 4 moves up to the summit block; two large cornices were on the summit block- one to the east and one to the north. Mixed hanging snow and exposed rock to the summit proper.
Brought a light alpine rack and two pickets, but did not need either. Used two 30m ropes for two rappels- 40m ropes would have reached the notch below the Class 4 scramble section. Snow was firm on the way in, but used snowshoes on the descent. From the end of the second switchback on Coal Creek Road, ascending a line more perpendicular up the slope avoids some circuitous navigation along the Devil's Lake stream until about 3,000-3,400 ft elevation.