Trip Report    

Aid Climb - Moonlight Buttress

Extremely enjoyable climb of one of a truly classic big wall route.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Virgin River was barely passable...and cold!  River was running at 96 CFS, while the limit for safe crossing is 100 CFS.

    The (sandstone) rock was dry, it not having rained for about a week prior to climbing.   It began raining the afternoon after we completed the climb, so we really threaded the needle in terms of the rock being climbable.   In spring, one must wait a week following rains for the fragile sandstone to dry out before climbing.

    Angels Landing > West Rim trails were in good shape for walk off.

Picked up our wilderness climbing permit and then took the shuttle bus to beginning of the approach.

Climbed pitches  1 through 4 on day one.  Pitch 4 is a 180' dihedral splitter crack.

Set up portaledge at the top of pitch 4.  This worked ok, and we were comfortable after a lot of time adjusting the ledge riggin. Top of pitch 3 or top of pitch 5 would be more ideal locations for rigging the portaledge.

Climbed pitches 5 through 9 on day two, then walked off via the Angels Landing -> West Rim trails be headlamp in the dark.  Bivvy'd at Grotto shuttle stop because it was too late for the shuttles and we were too tired to walk back to the campground.

See all the photos at the following two galleries: