Wedge Mountain/West Ridge

A moderate glacier climb of 7,195 feet to the highest peak in British Columbia, Canada's Garibaldi Provincial Park.The climbing route rises above Wedgemount Lake with spectacular views of neighboring peaks in north of Garibaldi.

getting there

Drive BD-99 ~8 miles past Whistler, turn right onto the road to the Wedgemount Lake Trailhead (it may be unsigned). Just after crossing railroad tracks, turn left (this is not the first fork in Fairley), then follow road to new, well-marked trailhead (2,475 ft).

Approach

Follow the relentlessly steep trail to camp at Wedgemount Lake (6,435). There is a hut with room for six and many tent sites.

Climbing Route

Traverse around the lake to the start of the glacier and rope up.  Follow the glacier for ~1 mile and ~1,000 feet of elevation gain. Cross the saddle between Wedge and Parkhurst and descend ~350 feet while traversing around past the major West Ridge couloir. Take the Snow Ridge to the Sky to gain the southwest slope at 7,750 ft. Traverse right several hundred feet to find a snowfield. Ascend this and/or talus ENE to the long summit ridge and follow to the summit (if in a whiteout, note that the cairn is not the summit).

Descent Route

Descend the climbing route.

equipment

Standard glacier gear.

notes

  • Reservations are required year-round for all camping in Garibaldi Provincial Park.
  • Dogs and fires are prohibited in Garibaldi Provincial Park.
  • Guidebook: Alpine Select: Climbs in Southwest British Columbia & Northern Washington by Kevin McLane (Elaho Press 2001).

information for leaders

Considerations for international travel

  • Start by reviewing the latest regulations.
  • Everyone will need a passport or other valid ID such as a NEXUS card.
  • NEXUS cards can save a lot of time but only work if everyone in the car has one.
  • Make sure your vehicle insurance is valid for Canada.
  • Make sure your health insurance is valid for Canada.
  • Border crossing regulations are strict in both directions. Know what you’re allowed to take and declare everything to avoid problems.
  • You may be able to save time by checking alternate border crossings. Find apps that show updated times and other good tips.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 7,152 ft
  • 9,613 ft
  • Land Manager: Garibaldi Provincial Park
  • Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
  • Recommended Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
Map
Clark Geomatics Garibaldi Park;CNTS Whistler 92J/2
Activities

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