Tupshin & Devore Peaks

Climb two of Washington's 100 highest peaks in a remote area of the Gacier Peak Wilderness and North Cascades. This is a multi-day trip with some added logistics getting to Stehekin and interesting route-finding and off-trail travel.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS

Drive to Chelan or Fields Point Landing and catch the Lady of the Lake ferry (or find alternative commercial transportation) to Stehekin.  From Stehekin find transportation to the Weaver Point Campground (motorboat or bus, or hoof it).

APPROACH

From the Weaver Point Campground hike on the Devore Creek Trail about 4 miles to Bird Creek Campground (4,200 ft). You may camp here or hike offtrail approximately one mile into a basin at 5,400 ft along Bird Creek (follow the creek on the north side).

ASCENT ROUTE

Tupshin Peak

From the basin at 5,400 ft head northeast making a rising traverse until you enter a second drainage around 5,800 ft.  Ascend this drainage to 7,600 ft.  Scramble up the face to the summit, routefinding carefully to find the easiest way up (Class 4 with a few Class 5 moves).

Devore Peak

From the basin at 5,400 ft continue along Bird Creek until you reach a large open basin near lakes around 7,000 ft.  Cross Bird Creek at the northern lake  and hike SE, ascending to a col at about 7,500 ft in Devore's southeast ridge.  From the col head west and scramble to the summit (Class 3-4).

DESCENT ROUTE

For each peak descend the climbing route using a mix of rappels and downclimbing.  Return to camp.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENTTIME (HR)ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 5-6 4200
Camp to Tupshin 5-6 3000
Tupshin to Camp 4-5 -3000
Camp to Devore 4-5 3000
Devore to Camp 3-4 -3000
Camp to Trailhead 4-5 -4200

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock climbing gear.  Light rack.

notes

  • Guidebook: Summit Routes: Washington's 100 Highest Peaks by Scott Stephenson and Brian Bongiovanni (Alpenbooks Press 2004).
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
  • Length: 22.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 10,000 ft
  • 8,360 ft
Map
  • USGS Stehekin
  • USGS Mt Lyall
  • Green Trails Stehekin No. 82
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
Activities

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