Tupshin Peak, Devore Peak and Flora Mountain
Climb three of Washington's 100 highest peaks in a remote area of the Glacier Peak Wilderness and North Cascades. This is a multi-day trip with some added logistics getting to Stehekin and interesting route-finding and off-trail travel.
Getting There
Drive to Chelan or Fields Point Landing and catch the Lady of the Lake ferry (or find alternative commercial transportation) to Stehekin. From Stehekin find transportation to the Weaver Point Campground (motorboat or bus, or walk along the road). Or take the red/blue bus along Stehekin River road to the Harlequin Campground stop.
APPROACH
From the bus route, get off at Harlequin Campground near the new bridge. Cross the bridge and travel on the side of the airstrip. Take the Stehekin River Trail south from the airstrip. The Devore Creek Trail offshoot is just before the Devore Creek crossing. If you need water, continue on to the creek and fill up. This the last place to get water before Bird Creek Campground. If you don't need water, turn right (south) and begin heading up the trail.
From the Weaver Point Campground hike on the Devore Creek Trail about 4 miles to Bird Creek Campground (4,200 ft).
The camp area is about 100 feet before the river crossing with Bird Creek. There are three small tent spots and a fire ring. There's room for 4 small tents in these three openings. Be cautious and bring small tents or share so that you can fit, especially if you have to share with another party. The area is a thick wooded forest with no other flat, cleared spaces for setting up tents.
For Tupshin/Devore a higher camp exists, hike off trail approximately one mile into a basin at 5,400 ft along Bird Creek (follow the creek on the north side).
For Flora there are camp options in the upper basin, along the route, at 6,500 or higher up at 6,800-6,900 among the groves of larch trees. If you choose to break up the route and camp higher in the larch groves. You will be rewarded with beautiful views and plentiful options for tent placements.
ASCENT ROUTE
Tupshin Peak
From the basin at 5,400 ft head northeast making a rising traverse until you enter a second drainage around 5,800 ft. Ascend this drainage to 7,600 ft. Scramble up the face to the summit, routefinding carefully to find the easiest way up (Class 4 with a few Class 5 moves).
Devore Peak
From the basin at 5,400 ft continue along Bird Creek until you reach a large open basin near lakes around 7,000 ft. Cross Bird Creek at the northern lake and hike SE, ascending to a col at about 7,500 ft in Devore's southeast ridge. From the col head west and scramble to the summit (Class 3-4).
FLORA MOUNTAIN
Southwest Route, via saddle south of Enigma
From Bird Creek Camp continue further along the Devore Creek Trail, heading SW towards Tenmile Pass. About 3 miles from camp, around 5,100 tun off trail, heading east/south east. Cross Devore creek, then head uphill through the brush and trees. You'll be heading towards a saddle between Enigma and point 7716 (Forest Service Topo layer or Scanned Topos layer). Although you won't be able to see any of these points yet as you'll be in the trees and woods. There's a stream/creek coming down, not showing on the maps. It will mostly be to the right of the route up the hill. Around 6,500 things start to open up and you'll be done with the brush.
Continue up through the larch trees. There are places to get water from the creek coming down at several places. At 7,000 feet you'll reach the boulder field that takes you up to the saddle.
Scramble the boulder field and reach the saddle (7,460 feet) heading into Castle Creek basin. Descend east into Castle Creek basin, contouring around to the right to avoid steeper sections. Reach the bottom of the basin around 6,500. Then head back up with a NE direction. Ultimately making a counter clockwise half circle. Eventually reaching the south 8,230. Head up the summit ridge, in a northern direction. Then continue scrambling over to reach the summit at 8,320.
Bird Creek camp to Flora summit and back to camp is a long day, just under 15 miles and 6,325 gain/loss. With 6 miles of trail travel and then 9 miles is off trail travel and lots of bushwacking.
Note: alternate approach (from Holden) if combining with Riddle Peaks. Descend the shoulder into upper Riddle Creek and then ascend NE across into the Castle Creek basin joining the route above at 6,500 feet.
DESCENT ROUTE
For Tupshin and Devore descend the climbing route using a mix of rappels and downclimbing.
For Flora return following the same path that was used to reach the summit.
Return to camp.
TRIP PROFILE
| SEGMENT | TIME (HR) | ELEVATION GAIN (FT) |
|---|---|---|
| Trailhead to Bird Creek Camp | 5-6 | 3500 |
| Camp to Tupshin | 5-6 | 3000 |
| Tupshin to Camp | 4-5 | -3000 |
| Camp to Devore | 4-5 | 3000 |
| Devore to Camp | 3-4 | -3000 |
| Camp to Flora | 6-8 | 5180, -1000 |
| Flora to Camp | 5-7 | 1000, -5180 |
| Bird Creek Camp to Trailhead | 4-5 | -3400 |
EQUIPMENT
Standard rock climbing gear. Light rack.
Flora
Standard scramble gear. No climbing gear (ropes/pro) needed.
notes
- Guidebook: Summit Routes: Washington's 100 Highest Peaks by Scott Stephenson and Brian Bongiovanni (Alpenbooks Press 2004).
This photo is of Devore, White Goat and Tupshin (from the south/looking north) on the way up and over to Flora.
- Suitable Activities: Climbing
- Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
- Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
- Weather: View weather forecast
- Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
- Length: 37.0 mi
- Elevation Gain: 15,000 ft
- 8,360 ft
-
Land Manager:
Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests
Chelan Ranger District (OWNF)
- Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
- Recommended Party Size: 4
- Maximum Party Size: 12
- Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
- USGS Stehekin
- USGS Mt Lyall
- Green Trails Stehekin No. 82
- Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
- Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
- Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX
This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.
- Tupshin Peak
- Devore Peak
- Flora Mountain
| Name/Description |
|---|
| Mountaineers Beta & Brews: Less Traveled Basic Alpine Routes A link to the YouTube video of The Mountaineers Beta & Brews: Less Traveled Basic Alpine Routes presented May 26, 2020. The Tupshin & Devore segment by Stephen Bobick begins at 30:30. |