Johannesburg Mountain/Southeast Arête

APPROACH

Hike approximately 3 mi up abandoned Middle Fork Cascade River Road (from where it branches from Cascade Pass Road at approximately 1,600 ft) and Middle Fork Cascade River Trail to approximately 3,100 ft (just past stream) see map. Ascend through timber and a burnt/brushy area around 4,000' to campsite at approximately 6,200 ft, see map. 

ASCENT ROUTE

From Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 2: From camp, gain the ridge/arête. It is easiest to keep on the west side of the crest (class 3). At 7,000 ft, the original party climbed two pitches to east of the crest along an out sloping ledge, to reach a notch north of a large gendarme (keep right of the latter). Cross to the west through the notch and scramble to the summit ridge (join upper part of the East Route).

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

• Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
• Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
• All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
• All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb
• High Point: 8,200 ft

• Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  Stephen Mather Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 6
• Maximum Party Size: 6
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6