Mount Baker/Boulder Glacier

getting there

Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon and go east on SR-20 (North Cascades Highway) and turn left on Baker Lake Road. Just past Boulder Creek, turn left onto Forest Road 1130. At 1.5 mi, turn left onto Forest Road 1131 (the sign says Boulder Ridge Trail). Drive 4.2 mi to road end or trailhead.

APPROACH

The trail starts as an old cat track through an old clear-cut for l,000 ft, then enters big timber. Continue 2.1 mi to a small meadow (3,400 ft). Follow trail through gross mud and around the south side of the meadow, and pick up trail remnants and trail markers on the northwest side and proceed through light brush, traversing to a draw. Head up the open draw until a buttress blocks the way.

A short not-so-easy scramble puts you up on top of the buttress and on top of Boulder Ridge. (A hand line of questionable vintage has been in place recently — check this before use!) An open ridge leads to Boulder Glacier.

Camp on the ridge at about 5,700 ft. Alternatively, it is possible to camp on a flat area sheltered by the cleaver at about 7,500 ft allowing for a shorter summit day.

ASCENT ROUTE

Ascend glacier 500-1,000 ft avoiding small crevasses. Turn north to avoid small buttress, then head west straight up glacier. At about 9,500 ft traverse south-southwest .25 mi to skirt buttress. Be careful of rockfall and crevasses. Ascend steep snow slope for last 500 ft to summit (10,778 ft).

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment.

NoteS

• Although the approach can be arduous this is an exceptional glacier climb for Basic Course students.
• It is very beautiful, with a great view of Mount Shuksan, and a more remote than the Coleman or the Easton.
• There are crevasses to negotiate and a bergschrund to cross, yet overall route finding is straight forward and the incline is moderate.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: June, July
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb
• Elevation Gain: 8,100 ft
• High Point: 10,778 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Mount Baker Wilderness, Mount Baker Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12