Mount Matier/Northwest Face

getting there

Drive to the well signed Joffre Creek trailhead 37 miles north of Whistler, BC on Highway 99. 

Approach

The approach to camp at the third, and largest of the Joffee's lake, is 4 km of rough but well used trail.  Camping is plentiful on the west side of the lake as are the mosquitoes from July onward. 

Ascent

From camp traverse around the south side of the lake to gain the steep moraine to the left of the tall rock cliffs capped with the Matier Glacier.  Ascend the scree, rock bands and slabs finding the easiest route up the steep slope.  Angle up and right (southeast) to a break between the Matier Glacier seracs and the rock face of the west side of Joffre Peak.  You may encounter some loose 3rd and 4th Class steps.  Alternately you can often skirt the rock to the right by a short pitch of easy ice climbing to gain the upper flat Matier Glacier.  

Ascend south to the the steep glacier on the right (west) side of the face of Mount Matier.  This route is often guarded by a large bergschrund near its base.  Crossing the bergschrund can be the crux of this route, especially later season.  Climb 4 to 5 pitches to the summit ridge and scramble Class 3 rock up and left to the summit.  Note that this will be hard ice by late season. 

Descent

Descend via via the Northeast Face Spur (Class 3) to the lower glacier and continue to Joffre Lake.

Notes

• An alternative approach is from Keith's Hut which is northeast of Joffre Peak.
• Book Reference: Alpine Select: Climb's in Southwest British Columbia & Northern Washington by Kevin McLane (High Col Press/Elaho 2001).

information for leaders

• Considerations for travel to Canada

  • Start by reviewing the latest regulations. Look for information on border crossing and travel to Canada on these websites:
    
    • U.S. Customs and Border Protection
    • U.S. Department of Homeland Security
    • WSDOT (Washington State Department of Transportation)
    • Government of Canada
  • Everyone must have a passport or other valid ID like a NEXUS card.
  • NEXUS cards can save a lot of time but only work if everyone in the car has one.
  • Make sure your vehicle insurance is valid for Canada.
  • Make sure your health insurance is valid for Canada.
  • Border crossing regulations are strict in both directions. Know what you’re allowed to take and declare everything to avoid problems.
  • You may be able to save time by checking alternate border crossings.
  • See the Travel Industry Council of Ontario's 9 Travel Tips for Crossing the Canadian/U.S. Land Border blog post for some good tips on traveling to Canada.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
• Length: 10.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 4,600 ft
• High Point: 9,130 ft

• Land Manager: Joffre Lakes Povincial Park
• Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12