Mount Gimli/South Ridge

A spectacular 8-pitch steep climb with mostly 5.7 to 5.8 difficulty. There's an "out from under a roof" section that goes at 5.10a. The short approach and great climbing make this climb a classic in the Vahalla Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Gimli is heaven in Scandinavian mythology. For rock climbers this may be one of the most beautiful places on earth!

getting there

Drive to Slocan, north of Nelson, Britiah Columbia.  Just south of Slocan, drive the Little Slocan River Forest Road.  Turn right on the Bannock Burn Forest Road and follow it to the Gimli-Mulvey Trailhead. It's 15 miles of rough logging roads.

approach

Hike the steep, well-maintained trail about three miles to the base of Mount Gimli's south ridge.  There's a good bivy site abut 10 min from the base of the south ridge.

ascent

The climb is up the amazing south ridge about 10 minutes from the bivy area.  The 1st pitch is sustained 5.9 with a 10a move near the top.  The climbing stays pretty steep but eases off after the 1st pitch.  Pitches 2 and 3 wander up 5.7-5.8 sustained climbing with some runout and the exposure that is there the rest of the climb.  Pitch 4 takes you up to "Lunch Ledge" and from there move the belay up a little and its a full 5.8ish pitch that is steep and sustained, but offers some of the best climbing of the route.  Pitch 6 has the short 5.10a section traversing out from under a roof.  One more 5.7 pitch up and then a scramble to the summit.

descent

Descend Mount Gimli's east ridge (Class 3). Enjoy staring at the route and other climbers headed up as you descend.  Lots of goats too...they really like you.

equipment

Standard rock climbing rack.

information for leaders

Considerations for international travel

  • Start by reviewing the latest regulations.
  • Everyone will need a passport or other valid ID such as a NEXUS card.
  • NEXUS cards can save a lot of time but only work if everyone in the car has one.
  • Make sure your vehicle insurance is valid for Canada.
  • Make sure your health insurance is valid for Canada.
  • Border crossing regulations are strict in both directions. Know what you’re allowed to take and declare everything to avoid problems.
  • You may be able to save time by checking alternate border crossings. Find apps that show updated times and other good tips.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 3,500 ft
  • 9,200 ft
Map
  • CNTS Nelson 82F
  • CNTS Burton 82F/13
Activities

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