Mount Gimli/South Ridge

A spectacular 8-pitch steep climb with mostly 5.7 to 5.8 difficulty. There's an "out from under a roof" section that goes at 5.10a. The short approach and great climbing make this climb a classic in the Vahalla Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Gimli is heaven in Scandinavian mythology. For rock climbers this may be one of the most beautiful places on earth!

getting there

Drive to Slocan, north of Nelson, Britiah Columbia.  Just south of Slocan, drive the Little Slocan River Forest Road.  Turn right on the Bannock Burn Forest Road and follow it to the Gimli-Mulvey Trailhead. It's 15 miles of rough logging roads.


Hike the steep, well-maintained trail about three miles to the base of Mount Gimli's south ridge.  There's a good bivy site abut 10 min from the base of the south ridge.


The climb is up the amazing south ridge about 10 minutes from the bivy area.  The 1st pitch is sustained 5.9 with a 10a move near the top.  The climbing stays pretty steep but eases off after the 1st pitch.  Pitches 2 and 3 wander up 5.7-5.8 sustained climbing with some runout and the exposure that is there the rest of the climb.  Pitch 4 takes you up to "Lunch Ledge" and from there move the belay up a little and its a full 5.8ish pitch that is steep and sustained, but offers some of the best climbing of the route.  Pitch 6 has the short 5.10a section traversing out from under a roof.  One more 5.7 pitch up and then a scramble to the summit.


Descend Mount Gimli's east ridge (Class 3). Enjoy staring at the route and other climbers headed up as you descend.  Lots of goats too...they really like you.


Standard rock climbing rack.

information for leaders

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 3,500 ft
  • 9,200 ft
  • Land Manager: Valhalla Provincial Park
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
  • CNTS Nelson 82F
  • CNTS Burton 82F/13
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