Mount Fernow/Southwest Slope

The highest peak in the Entiat Mountains, Mount Fernow offers a challenging, strenuous scramble. Your routefinding skills will be tested in the 22 miles and nearly 6,000 feet of elevation gain.

getting there

Drive SR 2 east to Coles Corner.  Head north on SR 207 toward Lake Wenatchee, turning right at the southeast end of the lake.  Turn left onto Chiwawa River Road (Forest Road 62) and follow it over 25 miles, passing the Alpine Meadow Campground.  Look for Phelps Creek road branching on the right and follow it about 2.5 miles to the Phelps Creek trailhead.

APPROACH

Hike Phelps Creek trail about 3.5 miles to Leroy Creek.  After crossing the creek look for a trail headed up to the right. Follow this steep, dusty trail up to Leroy Basin with good camping (5,400 ft).

ASCENT ROUTE

From Leroy Basin camp, head north to a slight saddle in the ridge.  This is a cross-country route that ascends heather and scree. Cross the saddle and drop about 100 feet then traverse north up to a small lake (possible bivy campsite alternative). Continue north across another slight saddle, cross it, and drop about 300 feet.    Traverse climber's right around the terminus of the Gloomy Glacier (what remains of it).  Cross the glacier or under it on the moraine.  Climb the slope on the northeast side to another basin.  Then ascend slopes which start as a steep gully then become gentler with possible snow patches to a saddle in the ridge south of the summit.  Head north towards the summit using your nose to get around obstacles and stay on reasonable terrain.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME(HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to Trailhead 3
Trailhead to Summit Block 2-3 2000
Camp to Summit 8-9 3900
Summit to Trailhead 6-7

 

EQUIPMENT

Helmet.  A short scramble rope might be useful as well as a harness if any 4th class variations in routefinding warrant it.

NOTES

An ice axe and crampons may be needed for the approach may be needed, depending on time of year and conditions.

  • Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
  • Length: 22.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,900 ft
  • 9,249 ft
Map
  • USGS Holden
  • USGS Trinity
  • Green Trails Holden No. 113
  • Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
Activities

Upcoming Activities

There are no activities scheduled at this location.

Trip Reports
Resources

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.