McClellan Butte/North Couloir

getting there

Take Exit 42 off of I-90 and head east on Forest Road 55 (West Tinkham Road) for 0.25 mile and turn right into the McClellan Butte trailhead parking lot (1,600 ft). 

approach

Follow the McClellan Butte Trail to  an elevation between  2,800 to 3,400 ft and traverse to the right (west) to  a snowfield. 

ascent route

Follow the snowfield upwards into a gully that ends below rotten rock at the north side of the summit.  Those who have climbed the rock pitch recommend belaying from a tree  and ascending a dihedral crack to the left of the summit (5.6). The rock is  said to be very sharp and chossy with few good placements.  According to Beckey and others, the rock pitch may be avoided by contouring to the west.  Others have bypassed the rock pitch by ascending the North Ridge  staying just left (east) of the crest. 

descent route

Descend the South Ridge and traverse northeast to the McClellan Butte trail.  The snow may be very steep.  Alternatively, rappel the  rock pitch and down-climb the couloir.

equipment

Standard alpine ice climbing gear plus a small rock rack.

information for leaders

Permits

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use." Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: January, February, March, December
• Weather: View weather forecast
• View avalanche forecast.

• Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
• Length: 7.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 3,700 ft
• High Point: 5,162 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Mount Baker Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 4
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12