Mamquam Mountain

This is a moderate difficulty glacier climb ascending 5735 feet from Skookum Creek trailhead to the summit of Mamquam Mountain in Garibaldi Provincial Park. You will pass by two alpine lakes and gain the Mamquam Icefield enroot to the summit. Permits are required when camping within the park along this route.

The climb itself required a log crossing of Paranoid Creek, steep hiking to Darling Lake, then a choice of two routes to the summit. Route #1 follows a drainage past an upper tarn to gain the Mamquam Glacier and traverse to the summit from the northwest side. Route #2 continues up the steep slopes east of Darling Lake, creating a ridge top to gain the glacier and approach the summit from the east side.

Getting There

Drive N on I-5 to the Canadian border. Go through the Blaine border crossing to Trans-Canadian Highway 1. Head W and take exit to 99 to Squamish. From there look for a right turn onto Mamquam FS road for 8.5m to Skookum Rd turn off. Turn left and continue 4.2m to the end of the road to the Watersprite Lake Trailhead at 3700'. High clearance vehicles are required for this last part; vehicles can be consolidated at the Skookum Rd turn off.

Approach

Take the New Darling Lake Trail. The trail requires a somewhat sketchy log-crossing over Paranoid Creek around 2 miles in at 3360'. At 4 miles reach Darling Lake (5250') and good camping - the moraine on the far side of upper Darling Lake is an alternate.

Ascent Route

There are two routes to the summit. Route #1 follows a drainage past an upper tarn to gain the Mamquam Glacier and traverse to the summit from the northwest side. Route #2 continues up the steep talus slopes east of Darling Lake, cresting a ridge top to gain the glacier and approach the summit from the east side. The last 150 feet to the summit is a rock scramble. Unrope, then go through a notch and descend a rocky gully about 50 feet, then swing around to the left into another gully that takes you up to the summit. Very loose rock there and there is some slightly exposed 4th class scrambling.

Trip Profile

  • Seattle to Trailhead 4 hours
  • Trailhead to Camp 5 hours 2765' gain
  • Camp to Summit 5 hours 3185' gain
  • Summit to Camp 3 hours
  • Camp to Trailhead 3.5 hours

Equipment

Standard glacier equipment including helmet, a few pieces/slings for possible hand-line on summit block.

Notes

  • The climb can be done in two days or a more relaxed three day trip.
  • Nexus cards are very helpful with the border crossing (everyone in the car must have one to use the nexus lanes), since there can be long waits otherwise especially on weekends.
  • Standard WA drivers licenses are no longer accepted at the border - you will need an enhanced license (or passport) if you don’t have Nexus.
  • Be sure your data plan works in BC, since you will need day-of-use permits in the park (small fee) and they are only available online. Rangers often check for these!
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Length: 14.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,500 ft
  • 8,435 ft
  • Land Manager: Garibaldi Provincial Park
  • Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
  • Recommended Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
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