Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes

One day climb of Leuthold or Reid Glacier routes. We will stay at a nearby VRBO Saturday and Sunday nights to avoid driving home after the climb. All will share the cost of the lodging. We intend this climb primarily for Kitsap Intermediate students looking to complete their climbs and will take others that we can fit.

  • Fri, Apr 14, 2023 — Sat, Apr 15, 2023
  • Kitsap Branch Climbing Program
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Snow Scramble, Strenuous 3, Technical 2, Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,235 ft

We will carpool from the Kitsap Program Center and will depart Friday April 14 at 1800. We will coordinate with others coming from the Seattle side of  the Sound and likely meet in Tacoma at the P&R near Highway 512/I-5. It will also be possible to meet at the trailhead. We will start climbing Saturday 0030 or so.

We plan to climb Leuthold or Reid Glacier routes with a pace of 1000' per hour for the approach and solid pace in teams of two for the technical portion of the climb. This will vary based on conditions from no rope required to pitched ice climbing dependent on conditions. We will most likely form standard glacier travel rope teams for the descent of the Pearly Gates route and quite likely use running protection in the steep sections of this.

You should have completed the Alpine Ice course and be reasonably proficient using two ice tools. 

We will make decisions collectively as much as possible. As climb leader I reserve the final say if needed, though we will not proceed in a situation unless all are in agreement the plan is safe and effective.

All will be dependent on the conditions, of course.


Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons, and please verify your crampon fit prior to the trip.
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe  and one technical tool or two technical ice tools
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder (not required for this trip)
  • A sleeping pad  (not required)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 4 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner (not essential - may use one of the 4, above)
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool) (not required)
  • Rescue pulley (not required/desired)
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Hard shell jacket and full-zip goretex pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete (Not required/desired)
  • 2 Pickets per climber are required for this trip
  • At least 12 ice screws for the team
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports